It was a culinary adventure on little known Filipino dishes that Filipino food advocate, author and restaurateur Amy Besa shared at The Maya Kitchen recently. Amy and her chefs presented virtually unknown ingredients and cooking styles with names like Kulawong Talong and Kinagang. There was a different take on the more familiar Ukoy and Beef Shortribs Adobo. The demo ended with Pinipig Cookies served with Avocado Ice Cream.
Besa and her husband Chef Romy Dorotan are mainstays of New York’s culinary scene with their famous Manhattan restaurant Cendrillon and later on Purple Yam in Brooklyn. They are also the authors of the book Memories of Philippine Kitchens which won the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) 2007 Jane Grigson Award for scholarship in the quality of its research and writing and was also a finalist for the Julia Child First Book Award.
Beef Shortribs Adobo
This thick, rich, dark brown, almost chocolaty sauce becomes even richer if you replace half the stock with coconut milk.
Serves: 4
3 tablespoons canola oil
3 pounds beef short ribs, cut into 4 equal pieces
1/2 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt
1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
2 cups chicken stock or 1 cup chicken stock
plus 1 cup coconut milk
1 cup sherry vinegar or apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup soy sauce
1 head garlic, cloves separated and peeled
3 bay leaves
3 whole birdseye chiles (optional)
1. In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, warm the oil until very hot but not smoking. Season the ribs with the salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Add the ribs to the pan, in batches if necessary, and brown well on all sides, about 3 minutes total.
2. Transfer the ribs to a plate, pour off the oil, and return the ribs to the pan.
3. Add the chicken stock (and coconut milk, if using), vinegar, soy sauce, garlic, bay leaves, remaining 1 teaspoon black pepper, and whole chiles, if using.
4. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, partially covered, until the meat is tender and falling off the bone, about 1 hour and 20 minutes, skimming off excess fat as you cook.
5. Transfer the ribs to a plate, increase the heat, and reduce the sauce until thickened, 10 to 15 minutes. Discard the bay leaves and chiles. Return the ribs to the sauce or arrange the ribs on a platter and pour the sauce on top.
Ukoy
1/2 banana leaf, thawed if frozen
Batter:
3/4 cup rice flour
1/3 cup Maya All Purpose Flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 large egg
Filling:
1 cup julienned Napa cabbage
1 cup julienned carrots
1 cup julienned snowpeas
1 cup julienned leeks (white part only)
1 1/2 cups bean sprouts
1 cup chopped peeled and deveined shrimp
2 teaspoons fish sauce
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 – 2 tablespoons Maya All Purpose Flour
Canola oil, for frying
Rice vinegar with sliced garlic and chopped chilies to taste, for serving.
1. Using a damp towel, wipe the banana leaf clean on both sides. Cut out 4-by-4-inch squares from the banana leaf. Set aside on a baking sheet. Brush one side lightly with oil.
2. To make the batter, sift the rice flour, all-purpose flour, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. In a medium bowl, beat the egg with 3/4 cup water, then stir this into the dry ingredients, to form a thick but smooth batter. Refrigerate the batter for 30 minutes to 1 hour.
3. Fill a deep saucepan or wok with 3 inches canola oil and warm over medium heat until the temperature is between 350° F and 365°F.
4. While the oil is heating, prepare the filling: Combine the Napa cabbage, carrots, snowpeas, leeks, bean sprouts, shrimp, fish sauce, and black pepper in a large bowl. Stir the batter and pour just enough to the filling to coat the ingredients. Sprinkle 1 – 2 tablespoons flour and toss the mixture to firm it up if necessary (it should not be too wet).
5. Put about 1/3 cup of the filling on the oiled side of the banana leaf square. Place a square in a spider and lower it into the oil. Fry until the fritter is set (about a minute) and remove the banana leaf. Continue frying for another minute until the fritter is lightly browned. Flip and brown the other side until crisp, 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. Lift out of the oil with the spider and place on a paper towel-lined baking sheet to drain. Repeat until all the filling is fried. Serve hot with the vinegar dipping sauce
