Chef Gene Gonzalez’ Recipes from Old Pampanga

It was Chef Gene Gonzalez’ turn at The Maya Kitchen Culinary Elite Series when he presented recipes near and dear to him.

Chef Gene prepared Adobo del Diablo (Capampangan Adobo) with a deep bronze produced by constant simmering and deglazing of the pan with stock when a crust is formed; Menudo Sulipeña (Oxtail Stew), slow simmered dish of oxtail, ham and Chorizo Bilbao with a dash of brandy; Pato Al Caparas (Duck with Capers) is simmered and braised duck with ham, liver and capers; Pasta Juan, chewy and buttery coconut bars; and Princess Cake, layers of freshly baked butter cake iced with buttercream with peach and strawberry puree and a ‘secret’ dose of Cointreau and coffee.

The chef who is among the country’s culinary powerhouses owns the iconic Café Ysabel, runs Buenisimo with his son Chef Gino, is the founder and chef instructor of culinary school Asian Culinary Studies, a TV personality and author of numerous cookbooks.

 

The Capampangan Adobo is a deep bronze and is produced by constant simmering and deglazing of the pan with stock when a crust is formed. This tasty caramelized stock is brought back to the meats to give the deep reddish brown hue.

Other areas would simply darken their adobo with soy sauce which is a crime in the Capampangan household. In fact, the Sulipan barrio will talk and gossip about the bad homemaker that puts soy sauce in her adobo and pity the hardworking provider of the house.

~ 1 ½ cups pork, cut into 1” cubes

~ 1 ½ cups chicken, cut in 3” pieces

~ ½ cup chicken heart

~ ½ cup beef liver, cut into ¼” cubes

~ ½ cup pork kidney, cut into 1” cubes

~ ½ chicken giblets, cleaned

~ ¼ cup chicken blood, cut into 1” cubes

~ ½ cup vinegar

~ 2 tablespoons corn oil

~ 1/2 tablespoon cracked pepper

~ 2 tablespoons garlic

~ ¾ tablespoons salt

~ 6 tablespoons fish sauce

~ 3 tablespoons pork lard

~ 2 cups chicken stock

1)    Sauté garlic in corn oil until slightly brown. Add pork cubes, chicken, chicken heart, beef liver, pork kidney, beef liver, chicken giblets and chicken blood.

2)    Add vinegar, pepper then fish sauce.

3)    Take-out chicken giblets and heart, beef liver and chicken blood. Continue braising. When brown crust forms and meat turn brown douse with a little stock and deglaze. Return brown colored liquid to the meat and continue until crust forms again. Repeat deglazing with stock about 3 our times.

4)    Add all variety meats when chicken and pork are tender and sauce turns brown. When stock is added.

5)    Simmer for 15 minutes or until dry then separate meats.

6)    Deglaze pan with stock. Serve the sauce on the side and meats separately.

Oxtail Stew

Menudo or “little stew” refers to a common, everyday dish of slow-simmered bits of a variety of meats, such as tripe (in Mexican menudo), or ground or cubed pork mixed with potatoes. In Pampanga, common menudo is never complete without tidbits of liver or heart. Menudo Sulipeña however, is an oxtail stew or braise decadent enough to grace a banquet. The dish reflects the extravagance of that time though it carries the “humble” name, menudo.

Purchase the oxtail from a reputable dealer because strong, undesirable odors are often present in improperly cleaned or processed oxtails.

~1 kilo oxtail cleaned and washed

~ 2 tablespoons butter

~ 3 tablespoons olive oil

~ 1 head garlic, chopped

~ 1 medium onion, chopped

~ 1 red pepper, seeded and roasted

~ 1 green pepper, seeded and roasted

~ Dash of paprika picante

~ ½ cup ham, cubed

~ ½ cup sliced chorizo Bilbao (Spanish sausage)

~ 1 cup tomato sauce

~ 1 tablespoon tomato paste

~ 1 tablespoon cooked garbanzos (chick peas)

~ 1 tablespoon Spanish brandy

~ Salt and pepper

1)    Pressure cook oxtail 20-25 minutes or simmer with enough water to cover until tender. Debone and cut into ½- inch cubes. Set the stock aside.

2)    In a casserole, heat butter and olive oil. Sauté garlic and onion, then add red and green peppers and paprika. Stir fry 2-3 minutes. Add oxtail, ham, chorizo, tomato sauce and tomato paste.  Add stock and simmer over low fire about 10 minutes. Add garbanzos and brandy. Season with salt and pepper.

 

Suprisingly, the recipe uses grated coconut which was considered proletarian fare at that time. But these chewy buttery bars will give even the person looking forward to the 21^st century, an unfading appreciation of the past.

~1 cup flour

~1/3 cup shortening or lard

~1/4 teaspoon salt

Combine all ingredients and knead on a floured surface until smooth. Roll out the dough and fit into a baking pan.

For the topping:

~4 cups sugar

~1 cup water

~grated meat of 2 coconuts

~15 egg yolks

~125 grams unsalted butter, melted

~3 tablespoons flour

1) In a large cooking pot, combine sugar and water. Boil until the syrup forms a soft ball when a little is dropped into a cup of cold water. Add the coconut meat and anise, stirring constantly. Remove from heat.

2) Add egg yolks one by one.

3) Return to low heat. Add butter, mixing constantly. Add flour and mix thoroughly. Remove from fire then mix about 3 minutes.

4) Spread mixture evenly on prepared crust. Brush top with egg yolks. With a knife, cut into desired portions.

5) Bake 15-20 minutes at 350F or until coconut is lightly browned.

6) Wrap individually in wax paper or store in alright container.

(Duck with Capers)

This dish is prepared by simmering and braising the meat for a long time with country-style ingredients, such as ham, liver and capers, to accentuate the flavor of the meat. The recipe is applicable to all types of game birds, boar, venison and rabbit. It is a classic rich stew well enjoyed at that time with a robust Spanish or French red wine or sweet Sauterne.

~ 1 whole duck, with excess back fat trimmed

~ Salt and pepper

~oil for frying

~60 grams butter

~ 30-40 grams flour

~ 1 ½- 2 cup duck stock

~ 12 baby onions, shallots or pearl onions

~100 grams whole button mushrooms

~ 70-100 grams duck giblets and liver

~ 100 grams ham, cubed

~ ¼ cup capers

~ 4-5 tablespoons sherry

~ ½ teaspoon whole peppercorns

~ 2 bay leaves

~ caper juice to taste

1)    Season duck with salt and pepper. Deep fry in oil until skin is golden brown. Remove from oil and set aside.

2)    In another saucepan, melt 40-50 grams butter. Add flour, cook and stir until mixture is browned. Add stock and stir with wire whisk until smooth. If lumps remain, strain the set aside.

3)    In a braising pan, heat 10-20 grams butter. Sauté onions, mushrooms, giblets, liver, ham and capers. Add the peppercorns, sherry and brown stock sauce. Braise duck in mixture and cook over medium heat until done. Adjust seasoning, add bay leaves and caper juice.

4)    Serve duck whole or cut to desired serving options.

No other cake in Sulipan was more decadent and richly sensual than the Princess Cake. This delightful torte with French overtones was one of the highlights of the Sulipan banquet. Layers of freshly baked butter cake were iced with buttercream made luscious with peach and strawberry puree and a “secret” dose of cointreau and coffee. One needs only to sample a small slice to know it is truly worth its title. Be sure to use butter and not margarine.

For the cake:

~ 1 ½ cups butter

~ 2 ½ cups sugar

~ 9 egg yolks

~ 3 ½ cups cake flour

~ ½ cup cold milk

~ 4 teaspoons baking powder

~ 2 egg whites

~ Fresh strawberries and peach slices

1)    Preheat oven to 350F

2)    Cream butter with 1 cup sugar

3)    Beat egg yolks and 1 cup sugar until lemon colored. Add to butter mixture. Add flour alternately with milk. Add baking powder. Set aside.

4)    Beat egg whites. Gradually beat in ½ cup sugar. Fold creamed mixture into beaten egg whites. Pour into a greased 10” x 14” cake pan. Bake in oven until toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean.

5)    When cool, remove from pan and slice cake in the middle to make two layers. Frost with fruit buttercream icing between layers, top and sides. Garnish with fresh strawberries and slice peaches.

~ 2 ½ cups butter

~1 ½ cups sugar

~1 cup milk

~ 1 tablespoon instant coffee

~ 2 cups frozen or fresh strawberries

~ 2 cups sliced peach halves

~ 2 tablespoons dark rum

~ 3 tablespoons Cointreau, triple sec or any orange liqueur

With a mixer, cream butter and sugar. Gradually add milk and coffee. Fold in strawberries and peaches. Add rum and orange liqueur.